Apron Tutorial

Yes, it is as exciting as it sounds.

The Schacht Standard Floor Loom from 1982 came with string aprons. I am not sure whether cloth aprons are an option for them, but my preference are cloth aprons.

When we first began restoring looms, I always bought cloth aprons for them, insecure in my ability to make them myself. While sewing is not my favorite activity, I do okay with it. In fact, my skills are very slowly improving.

Sewing the cloth aprons was not the hold up, but tying waxed hemp or linen cords equidistant from the apron rod without a jig was.

Here is a photo from Sarah Haskins’ blog (Macomber Looms and Me) showing a freshly installed cloth apron. Note the two rods, one tied onto the other.

That is the part I could not do. So, I bought aprons from Macomber and Leclerc for whichever kind of loom we were working on.

The cloth aprons for the 56” Beast were $69 each, and I needed a pair.

For the 24” Meg, they were more reasonable at $29 each. She also required a pair.

The Schacht is 45” wide. I found heavy 60” wide canvas at $9.99/yard, not including their 40% off coupon. I bought 3 yards because I was unsure how much I would actually need, and I also like extra. I ended up needing only 1.19 yards for two aprons. Thus, the canvas was all of $7.15, plus tax.

48” quarter inch rods were $4.98 each. I needed two per apron. (I actually use 3 rods per apron on I occasion, I covered that in this blog post a while ago.) 4 rods were $19.92, plus tax.

Texsolv cord is $59.99 for a cone of 55 yards or $1.09/yard. Fortunately for me, a generous friend shared 9 yards with me out of which I was able to make a 36” wide apron for a Leclerc and two 45” aprons for this Schacht. I was short five or six ties for the warp beam apron, which can easily be added later.

The only other things I needed for this project were Fray Check, a ruler (I used a framing square), pencil, scissors, double point staples, thread, sewing machine, clear packing tape, and iron.

Crochet hook and lighter are optional. The former helped make loops in the Texsolv. The latter I used to singe the ends of the cut Texsolv.

To begin, I measured the width of each beam.

The Schacht was odd.

This is supposed to have a 45” weaving width. The beater has enough space to accommodate a 47” reed; however, the back beam is 44.5” wide and the front beam is only 43” wide.

This took me by surprise, as all three of my Macombers have beams wider than their respective weaving widths.

Similarly, the aprons for both the Leclercs I replaced them on also have beams wider than their weaving widths.

I rationalized that Schacht must take into consideration draw-in of two inches from the reed to the cloth beam when weaving the full 45”. That’s the only think I could come up with.

Therefore, the width of both aprons would be 43”.

Then I measured the distance from each beam, under and over the back/breast beam to the heddles on the back and the beater on the front. Those measurements were about 28”.

As my fabric was 60” selvage to selvage, I cut a piece 60” long and 43” wide using the framing square to make it as square as possible.

This canvas is perfect for this application. It’s tightly woven, heavy, and stiff with sizing. It need not be washed. It holds it shape extremely well and cuts crisply. I was so happy to have it.

I like to keep the selvage end, if possible, to attach to the beam. I use it to help me determine square for each piece.

In this instance, I folded the cut piece in half and ironed the fold, making sure the selvages were even. I cut the piece at the fold.

The cut ends would be double folded for a rod pocket.

Using the framing square again, I measured my first fold line 1-inch from the end. A second fold line was measured 2.5-inches from the edge (1.5-inches from the first fold line). I literally drew a line in pencil for each fold line.

The above shots use a scrap piece of canvas, as I had already made the aprons before I decided to make this tutorial.

Once the fold lines were made, I placed the drawn lines face down on the ironing board and ironed the hems.

From there, I simply did a zig zag stitch to secure the rod pocket/hem. 

The completed aprons were 43” apart. I wanted ties spaced every two inches. I decided to come in 1.5” on either side and place 21 marks every two inches. 

My mock up was 19” wide. The same math applied. I came in 1.5” on either side and made marks every two inches. 

Then I cut out triangles to allow me space to attach the Texsolv to the rods. 

Texsolv is braided nylon cord with openings or holes every half inch or so. If the rods are small enough, they can slip right into the holes in the cording. If not, you have to create loops by pulling the cord through itself, which is what I had to do. 

I cut lengths of Texsolv 12 holes long. Then I singed each end to keep them from unraveling because I am paranoid. 

I made loops at both ends of each individual length of cord before running a rod through the apron and attaching them. 

Note: I applied the Fray Check after I ran the rods through the canvas because that stuff is plastic cement, and I did not want to risk gluing the canvas closed. The dark areas around the cut openings and along the sides of the apron are where I applied the Fray Check. Do not hem the sides is the aprons, as that will create an uneven tension when the apron is wound onto the beam. 

The Fray Check dries clear and looks only slightly darker. 

Once complete and dry, I attached the selvage edge to the beam. On Macombers, the round beam has a line drawn across it to mark where to attach. This Schacht had an octagonal beam, so I picked an edge as my guide. I held it in place with clear packing tape until the sweet husband could hammer the staples to secure it. 

We repeated the process in the front. 

Unfortunately, the night before, I gave her another rub down with Howard’s Feed & Wax. The tape refused to stick to the front. So, I held it in place while the husband tacked it down, before going back and securing it properly. 

Here are the staples we used. 

Schacht is still closed at the moment, and I am unable to order parts for her; however, I have a warp ready to go.

Her existing brake needs some work, but I am planning on replacing it, as she did not come with a crank handle. 

Unfortunately, due to her age, they do not have a crank handle to fit her anymore. This means the brake drum on the end of the warp beam will be replaced so the crank handle attachment may be installed. 

Otherwise, she is in very good shape. Her wood is gorgeous!

She even has a forever home waiting on her. 

My sweet friend in Houston has a 24" 8-shaft Baby Macomber. We have agreed to trade looms, once she is up and running as I will have about what she has in the Baby Mac. Although, I think my friend intends to outfit this one with the last four harnesses to bring her up to her full potential. 

I am so excited!